Grocery Shopping Gems in Hawaii

May 2024 · 8 minute read

Hello there!

I hope you’re warm and or dry wherever you are. I have lots to report and couldn’t get it all organized and polished to send sooner. This grocery shopping travelogue should interest you whether or not you go to Hawaii.

Before I ever visited the islands, people told me about the price of groceries — how they are expensive but also wonderfully diverse, leaning toward Asia more than any other state in the nation. According to 2021 Census data, about 45 percent of Hawaii’s population identifies as Asian and/or Pacific Islander.

A video presentation at the Bishop Museum in Honolulu pointed out that historically, Hawaiian natives encouraged intermarriage as a way to grow islands’ population. Their strategy: invite outsiders to become more Hawaiian and thereby become thoughtful stewards of the environment. There were pros and cons to that but in terns of grocery shopping in Hawaii, the tactic birthed a unique transpacific blending of foodways.

I recently spent two weeks on Kauai and Oahu. We stayed with friends and mostly cooked our own food. On Kauai, our dear friend, Chan, grows lots of vegetables and fruit so that was an amazing luxury.

In Honolulu, our friends John and Mike were settling into a condo in a high-rise building. Our Hawaii Five-O week with them meant that we gloriously dined on paper plates and bowls and got to enjoy iconic views of Diamond Head (up top).

I made recipes from Ever-Green Vietnamese, including gingery beef and mushroom with bun rice noodles (page 254) and panfried tofu banh mi (page 128) with a side of pickled bean sprout salad (page 172). My vacationing tip: Set things up as a DIY situation to create less hassle and less work for the cook!

Because I love to cook and grocery shop, I walked plenty of aisles and explored a couple farmer’s markets during our time there. Here’s what I have to share!

A number of you live in Hawaii so do add your input!

Let’s start with the familiar talk about prices. In the main, food prices at national chains are 5 to 10 percent higher in Hawaii than on the mainland. The selection is similar but not. If you want standard groceries at reasonable prices, national chains should figure into your shopping plans. They have buying and shipping power to move goods from all over so they have a comparative advantage.

Things get more interesting at the local markets. I became familiar with two chains on the islands:

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Certain markets are only on Oahu. I didn’t get to all of these but want to flag them for you:

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I cook so I’m always looking for farmer’s markets that sell more ingredients than prepared foods. People highly recommend Honolulu’s Saturday market at Kapiolani Community College (KCC) but it was 75% food vendors. I did score fresh hot chiles and superb eggplant from the Thai Farmer’s Association, delicious ice cream bananas, and banh mi rolls from Viet-owned La Tour, which also distributes to Foodland, Safeway, Times and others.

I asked the KCC market manager where cooks shop and he suggested the Kaka’ako Farmer’s Market, which is conveniently near an H-Mart. Alex and Andrew Le of The Pig and the Lady endorsed the Kaka’ako market too. They also suggested Farmlink Oahu for ordering ingredients.

Kauai Farmer’s Markets are plentiful. When I’m on the island, most of the produce we eat comes from Chan’s garden. Farmers do bring super ripe tropical fruit and fresh vegetables to the farmer’s markets.

Among my souvenirs from Hawaii was a taste for tofu watercress salad, called lauʻai tōfū lēkō according to the Kamehameha Schools. It’s incredibly refreshing and satisfying, due to the tofu, which picks up the gingery sesame soy dressing well and turns creamy.

I adore watercress. In Vietnamese, the spicy greens are called rau cải xoong; “xoong” halfway mimics cresson, French for watercress.

Say watercress in Vietnamese!

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Once home, I found a tofu watercress salad recipe for in chef Sheldon Simeon’s cookbook, Cook Real Hawai’i(2021, Clarkson Potter). His rendition was good but cheffy so I tweaked it to make it less fussy, more versatile, seasonal, and vegan.

To keep this dispatch shortish, I published the recipe at Viet World Kitchen. Head to the website for the tofu watercress salad recipe plus a bunch of suggestions for ingredient swaps and add-ins!

🌱 One more thing — Viet herb totes are shipping again. Breaking with normal schedules, I’ll send a separate note to you on Tuesday about it.

👂 And, another thing — when you have a moment, give a listen to this week’s Splendid Table episode. Host Francis Lam talks to me, the Leung family of the Woks of Life, and chef Yoon Hee Kim! I adore the Leungs and Yoon Hee.

You’ve read enough of me for today. Time to make that salad and ponder tropical warmth!

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